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removing gold anodizing from wheels?

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Posted by: yamasaki_125

i want to take the gold anodizing off of my 250R wheels and i heard that you can use oven cleaner to take it off? does this work? thanx



Posted by: 98Lakota

I have used oven cleaner to remove the adonizing from aluminum parts before. Not sure if it will work on the wheels, but I don't see why not.



Posted by: Pvt. Maggot

maybe paint stripper would work? -shrugs-



Posted by: RytM1

Don't know about all those home remedy ideas, but the easiest would be to check into a local anodizing shop. I took some motorcycle parts to one, and all it took was a few minutes. After they dip in into a tank of something, there is no trace of the color anywhere.



Posted by: monkeyboy

mommas gold neklac haas da gold fallin off it. i ax her how to git it off fer u.



Posted by: nacsracer27

quote:
Originally posted by RytM1
Don't know about all those home remedy ideas, but the easiest would be to check into a local anodizing shop. I took some motorcycle parts to one, and all it took was a few minutes. After they dip in into a tank of something, there is no trace of the color anywhere.


they dip the parts in pure acid...it wil take anything off including paint, anodizing, chrome etc....and makes the part looke 100% brand new....



Posted by: Pappy

quote:
Originally posted by nacsracer27
they dip the parts in pure acid...it wil take anything off including paint, anodizing, chrome etc....and makes the part looke 100% brand new....


i dipped some of my pc'd parts in 100% sulfuric acid and it didnt touch it

but they do sell a chemical that will take anodizing off....i have a link at work to the supplier...if its not posted by tomarrow ill get it for ya



Posted by: Pappy

old age here it is

caswell



Posted by: nacsracer27

quote:
Originally posted by Pappy
i dipped some of my pc'd parts in 100% sulfuric acid and it didnt touch it
eh...were all aloud to make a mistake sometime



Posted by: Pappy

quote:
Originally posted by nacsracer27
eh...were all aloud to make a mistake sometime


lol...you are correct...they have acids that will eat the stink off a skunk i was just surprised the acid i have didnt touch the pc. just becareful.....some of that stuff puts off fumes that will hurt you in a big way



Posted by: nacsracer27

quote:
Originally posted by Pappy
lol...you are correct...they have acids that will eat the stink off a skunk i was just surprised the acid i have didnt touch the pc. just becareful.....some of that stuff puts off fumes that will hurt you in a big way


yea...theres a polishing shop about 30 minutes away..they dip some stuff in the acid....i tried to get my cases dipped in it for free, since my friend works for him...but he wouldnt do it...o well...next year im gonna have my cylinder and head dipepd in it to remove all of the dirt that you cant get too in betweent he fins...



Posted by: shiftybone22

i have removed the gold anodizing b4. i used sodium hydroxide (i think). i was able to convince my high school chemistry teacher to let me use the chemicals and do it after school. make up a diluted mixture and rub it on with steel wool. it takes a little time but it will work. when u are done shine them up with mothers mag and aluminum wheel polish.



Posted by: TheChknhwk

Here is your answer... I too have some gold annodizing that I have to remove, so I took the liberty of finding out how.

You can strip off the existing anodized layer from any anodized part by placing the part in a Lye solution for an hour or so. Just mix up a few tablespoons of lye and water in a plastic container. Wear eye protection and rubber gloves for this procedure!! Place the part in the solution and monitor its progress. Most anodizing kits supply stripper. It works a little better than Lye and will not pit the part as easily as lye can if left unattended for too long.

The lye will dissolve the old anodized layer, about .0005" thick. It takes a while for it to start breaking through the layer. It's a little slow at first. The first ten minutes or so not much action will be seen. Bubbles and smut will rise up as an indicator of its progress.

It is a good idea to help the process along by wiping the smut off of the part to allow the acid to get to fresh aluminum. Just wipe off the part with a rag every 5-10 minutes until the old layer is completly gone (wear gloves and goggles). Only bare aluminum should be seen when the part is finished. Again, anodize stripper works harder on the oxide surface and less on raw aluminum. This is why it will not pit the part as easy. Once the solution breaks through to raw aluminum the process slows down. This is not the case with Lye. Lye starts dissolving the bare aluminum and can cause pits once it breaks through the anodized layer.

Credit to: http://www.focuser.com/atm/anodize/anodize99.html



Posted by: cook

i tried to Pm you about your rims but your box is full

wondering if you would like to trade for my 2001 440ex rims?



Posted by: bmw500hp

TheChknhwk:

Great Website!...make sure Pappy see's this one..he was interested in anodizing some time ago.





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