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Has anyone tried this part?
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Posted by: tgcheeseman
Has anyone tried out the new chain tensioner from Maximum Rpm. I was wondering since it was so cheap on price. Wow mine will be here Tuesday or Wednesday. Ill let you know how it is for the money cant beat it. Ill post pics. If you guys have not seen them check them out. Really nice and the price is right. Not advertizing just want opinions. Thanks.
Posted by: mini
enough with the plugs already!! toby
Posted by: tgcheeseman
Shoot look at the price you cant go wrong. Unbelieveable really. Have you ever tried one? Just asking for opinions. Thanks
Posted by: Bowhunter69
Well, since it is an exact copy of the ZTR tensioner I'm sure it will work just fine.
Amazing what you can get things made for in Taiwan eh? No wonder the US can't keep up.
Posted by: Bowhunter69
Nice! let ZTR perfect the product then just copy it!
Posted by: Lewis Rochester
With all the effort you put into this I hope you got yours free
Posted by: ZTR_MAN
quote:
Originally posted by Bowhunter69
Well, since it is an exact copy of the ZTR tensioner I'm sure it will work just fine.
Amazing what you can get things made for in Taiwan eh? No wonder the US can't keep up.
Just because it looks like a 'duck'.....quacks like a 'duck'.....and walks like a 'duck'.....doesn't mean its a 'duck'.
"And that's all I have to say about that."--Forrest Gump (1994)
Posted by: tgcheeseman
quote:
Originally posted by ZTR_MAN
Just because it looks like a 'duck'.....quacks like a 'duck'.....and walks like a 'duck'.....doesn't mean its a 'duck'.
"And that's all I have to say about that."--Forrest Gump (1994)
Your right - Just because it might look a little like a ztr'.....works like a ztr'.....doest mean its the exact replica of a ztr'.
And thats all I have to say about that. Toby Cheeseman (2009)
Posted by: Coley'sdad#8
Not knocking ANYBODYS product I just hate chain tensioners on mini's period!!!!!!! Get run over a berm, tweak the tensioner, straighten out, repeat process, getting old. If you want something to impress with design a guide system to eliminate the tensioner on the mini. Thats what i am doing after race season.
Should take a ton of drag off tranny and reduce wear caused by preloading tranny shafts. JMO
Posted by: LT80
"Not advertizing just want opinions."
Your wanting to stir the pot and you know it.
STFU about it allready. <--I'm sure I speak for more than myself.
Posted by: musky
tgcheeseman I would say that your really pushing your luck on this site. They have already deleted the earlier post. I'm not taking sides, I have spoke with Justin & James. They both were helpful & seemed like nice people. I think compitettion is great for us the consumer but give it break.
Posted by: mxdad423
quote:
Originally posted by Coley'sdad#8
Not knocking ANYBODYS product I just hate chain tensioners on mini's period!!!!!!! Get run over a berm, tweak the tensioner, straighten out, repeat process, getting old. If you want something to impress with design a guide system to eliminate the tensioner on the mini. Thats what i am doing after race season.
Should take a ton of drag off tranny and reduce wear caused by preloading tranny shafts. JMO
Here is how I did our guide, I still have a tensioner on there also just for an extra, but last year the tensioner spring broke right off of the hole shot, the chain was so loose after the tensioner spring broke you could of probably just lifted the chain right off of the front sprocket, he race 4 laps with it and the guide kept the chain on without a problem, I will never build another mini without a guide, best thing I ever did putting a guide on.
All I did was had Dave from DC send me some threaded bungs, I drilled 2 holes in the side of the swing arm, welded the threaded bungs into the holes I drilled then bolted the guide into them, works great, I used a Banshee chain guide.
Hope that gives you some ideas on yours, but you are definatley going in the right direction with a guide.
Kevin Smitley
Posted by: RIPIN IT
Posted by: Team-Ty
Chain is oldschool!
And I'm staying out of the rest of this discussion
Well except one thing people like James and I rely on selling product to fund the next idea we have. Now taking someone’s product and having it made overseas for $10.00 less than the original is a slap in the face (not cool). That is just going to drive us out of wanting to provide quality products for the mini world. I’m ending it here don’t want too get to carried away.
Yes that is a ZTR tensioner on there!
James call me got other things to talk about!
"UUHHH" -----(2010 Shawn Dean)
http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/DSModz/0902091750.jpg
Posted by: Logan #34's Dad
Ah Shawn! You've let the cat out of the bag. I was getting it ready to try locally. Hope noone beats me to it. Lol
Posted by: Team-Ty
Just trying to prove a point here. I have something else in the works that will blow the mini world away trust in me always got the goods! Anyways this winter will be very interesting with some of this stuff. This belt drive is nice works well but still needs some fine tuning.
Now if it wasn't for people buying our products stuff like this would not happen. We are not getting rich making parts for minis so why do it? Well talking to James like a month ago this was a topic of ours and the answer we both came up with was seeing our parts on the starting line and here positive comments on how our stuff performed. Negative comments are great to they just send us back to the drawing board to make it better.
The difference is quite a few times people asked for a certain product or a change to a previous product that would just be for them. In a week’s time that part is sting on their door step! Where else are you going to get parts made like that?
Hopefully this make sense I get to excited at times and my finger can't keep up!
"What ever it takes"-----Shawn Dean (2009)
Posted by: dazed&confused
that is just plain bad ***! it looks like it would work awesome on flat track,mx might be a little diffrent.
just think, molassi belt 65-75 dollars could you imagine what that belt will cost! the thought of taking care of 2 belts scares me LOL!
when you test this out can you post some video?would love to see it in action.
Posted by: Team-Ty
Well here is the thing with this its not as much as you think. The belt should run about $30-$80 depending on what grade of belt you want and the pulleys are like $40 or so a piece ( these are just off the top of my head numbers don't quote me, been through alot of products to find the right stuff!). So its not that bad to switch over. MX will be tough on this belt but TT or Flat track will be perfect for it!
Posted by: sickairseth
looks awsome, I agree, doesnt look good for MX. I couldnt see it holding up to rocks or a mud race.
Posted by: tgcheeseman
Anybody see any thing new?
Posted by: tgcheeseman
Again see anything NEW?
Posted by: tgcheeseman
Wow my wife says she LOVES these grips and she is not into 4 wheelers. She said they are very soft and comfortable with a slick design. They must be something for her to say this.
Posted by: JAG Motosports
Ya Ya we know your not trying to advertise 
Posted by: Team-Ty
this is quite funny though!
Who makes thoughs grips, the name is a little blurry.
Joking --- nice "slick / soft" grips though
Posted by: TTracer#22
Toby are you trying to get free parts again like you did from racer65???? LOL
Posted by: tgcheeseman
No I just seen these and never did before. I check out that site everyday and then there it was so I was just letting everybody else see. Not intending to make anyone mad.
Posted by: RIPIN IT
How do you get so many sponsors?? You must attend alot of races to get so many!
Posted by: tgcheeseman
Look at the signature. Thats why. Really good racer. So how are you Curtis??
Posted by: RIPIN IT
LMAO
Posted by: Coley'sdad#8
Uhhhh Toby,
Ya might wanna go tighten up that nut on your swingarm bolt showing in your first picture of the tensioner. Looks like it is just about to fall off.
Posted by: tgcheeseman
Chris this is a new build and I'm not done. That swingarm is comming off and a chrome Maximum rpm swinger +3 is going on. I just wanted to see what the tensioner looked like and the grips since I just received. Thanks for the heads up tho.
Posted by: tgcheeseman
We are now waiting on the all new water impeller. The new impeller has 27 percent more flow with the fins being billet and the shaft being stainless. This being said you will have a cooler motor. Everybody knows cooler motor means better performance. We will be getting it Friday and will post pics.
Posted by: Logan #34's Dad
Hey Toby, too much flow could create an overheating issue. You have to have water maintain in the radiator to cool the water or it will just flow and continue to get hotter.
Posted by: Team-Ty
I've been waiting about a month for this.
Rocky is correct on the flow of coolant. The faster you run the coolant through the radiator the less heat transfer time the coolant has resulting is a hotter running engine. The stainless steel is a nice touch but coolant already has a rust inhibitor in it. Also stainless steel isn't that tough of material specially riding on bearings, just my input. What do I know though I only spent 3 months designing and spent $1500 on sensors to monitor flow and cooling aspects.
Posted by: tgcheeseman
Hey Shawn the stainless does not spin in the bearing the inner race spins with the shaft. If the shaft spins inside the bearing race you have a bad bearing. Also the oem impellers were originally designed for a scooter with very small radiators even smaller than an apex so it needed slow moving water. No one ever changed it with the newer bigger radiator. It needs more flow. They were not right from factory and everyone uses the same waterpump. They were made over 10 years ago. The scooters also have the radiator stuck up inside the body and had very little air flow. Not like an atv stuck wide open. And believe me Im not trying to argue with you about this, or any of this as a matter of fact.
Posted by: Team-Ty
Good thoughts your thinking. There’s a lot more to it then what were touching on here, but we will have to see.
Toby hear me out on this, and everyone else who is following this. We don’t need multiplies of the same parts out on the market. This venue is not that big yet. If Justin wanted to make impellers that’s fine. A call from him would have been nice though. Anyone that knows me will tell you that I’m not in this market to become rich, I’m here because I find it FUN and seen an opportunity to make some parts and help people out. I try to make quality parts at a very reasonable price. There is hundreds of parts on these quads and we maybe have 20% of the parts in an aftermarket form (not saying there better then OEM but there is a choice to make). Now if Justin called me and said hey Shawn I was thinking of making the impeller and have a company in China/Twain that can make them for X amount of dollars and we can sell them for X amount of dollars less than yours. I would have been actually excited, and would have given some info of what I found out and went on to the next project (a few parts would have been a bonus). We need in this industry is quality parts that are reasonably priced. US companies cannot compete with China’s labor rate; it just can be done (that’s all I can say about that). I would like the US dollar to stay in the US but that’s my opinion. Now the reason I’m upset with this situation is that we both took the energy and resources to make the same part when one of us could have been making something else!
Now swing arms, a-arms, and products like that all have their own twist on their design which make them better in their own ways (which is awesome). Justin and I have the same part (27% more flow is BS, playing with the fins on something like this is not something to take lightly if there is too much turbulence in the fluid it could cause cavitations which will destroy its self).
I am going to continue making these impellers and other parts for the customers that want a US made product.
Posted by: MAXRPM
Before this gets to far carried away I thought I would put as accurate of facts I can to lesson the argument that looks like may get started.
“Toby hear me out on this, and everyone else who is following this. We don’t need multiplies of the same parts out on the market. This venue is not that big yet. If Justin wanted to make impellers that’s fine. A call from him would have been nice though.”
I did not just see that DS MODZ was making an impeller so I thought I would copy it and make my own. How this came about was the fact that a lot of people have water pump failures on the liquid cooled for two reason either the impeller fins break off due to heat, stress what ever or the seals go bad and it leaks. The two main reasons for this are the impeller is plastic and the housing is not very good. The main reason most water pumps fail on these is the bearing housing is not properly machined. When we tested them 7 out of 10 were damaged brand new. The bearing holes were not properly machined so when the bearing was pressed down in, the bearings were damaged upon installation thus causing the seals to prematurely going bad. That is why some people continually put seals in one particular pump.
We are in the process of making a new complete water pump that will be more fail proof, however it is not completed yet so we made an impeller to go in the stock water pump until complete pump is finished due to request. At the time I did not even know DS MODZ was making one I just happen to see it on someone’s website after we already started to make it over a month ago, which is why you say you have been waiting for a month on this, because I asked that person about it.
“(27% more flow is BS, playing with the fins on something like this is not something to take lightly if there is too much turbulence in the fluid it could cause cavitations which will destroy its self).”
Not entirely BS the flow rate on an OEM plastic impeller was tested at different RPMs but I will only use one as an example. The flow rate on an OEM plastic impeller is 8.0 oz per sec. and with the new hi flow impeller is 9.7 oz per sec. (9.7-8.0)/8.0=+21.3% at 2000 rpm
Now when you take the same design of the OEM and you machine it out of aluminum with a CNC the fins are straight cut and not tapered like the plastic ones and the flow rate is actually slower with a flow rate of 7.3 oz per sec versus 8.0 oz per sec. (7.3-8.0)/8.0= -8.8% so if anyone has copied the OEM impeller and made it out of aluminum the flow rate is actually less than stock due to non tapered fins.
If you look at Boyesen impellers and most Hon, Yam, Kaw, SUZ etc. you will find that the fins are either straight or slightly angled and not turbine style impellers because they need more flow. The original water pump and impeller was made in Taiwan over 15 years ago and it was a copy of an Italian company on a 49cc scooter. The radiator was less than half the size of an Apex is today which is much smaller than a DRR. The amount of water flow was based on the size of the radiator at that time. So yes it is true that too fast will make it run hotter due to not having enough time to cool the water but the flow rate was not enough to start with. Why does an RM85 that runs more RPM and produces more power only have 1 small radiator with no over heat problems?? Is it because they have a better water pump system from the factory? Why does Boyesen make a new impeller and housing for most brands? Is it because more flow will keep them cooler or is it just pretty?
I am not going to argue this until the cows come home I am only giving you the facts I know and that is it.
OH yeah all my parts are made in Taiwan not China big difference.
Justin
Posted by: Logan #34's Dad
Okay, now your talking over my head with all this math.
My question is: what is the optimum operating temperature for our engines? I got me one of them fancy tachometer/temperature gauges that will tell me. I know my 70 DRR has never seen 200.
One thing I have noticed is the flow at idle is not good. I've got the clear hose on the lower hose and noticed that if there is an air pocket (which there always is due to the bends of the hose) the water gets whisked out and no water follows due to the air pocket. When I reved it then the water started to flow. Once the water started to flow it then continued to flow even at idle. If I remember right I opened the cap and it flowed also.
Posted by: Reimer Racing
{Quote}
Okay, now your talking over my head with all this math.
I hear ya, when I was in collage and we wanted more flow out of are Beer Bong we just taped a bigger funnel on. 
Welcome to the Fourm there Mr. Justin.
Posted by: STOCKRACING917
Yes, Welcome Mr Justin. I wanted to take the opportunity to thank you for your participation in the youth contingency this year at Lorettas, Actually a big thank you to all sponsors who participated. I just want you to know Justin, it didn't go unnoticed the effort you put into it for the kids. And the personal service of coming by the hauler to check to make sure we were satisfied with our purchases and to inquire about our child was a super nice personal customer service. Thanks for all you do.
Paula Stockton
Posted by: LT80
So who is going to make a thermostat housing to make the motor run at a consistant temp? 
Posted by: MAXRPM
Reimer
If you could duck tape the beer bong funnel to the handlebars and keep dumping coolant in the top of the radiator the gravity would do the rest and we would not need the impellers.
#34's DAD
Optimum temperature is an arguable number between engine builders but the most common number used is 190 degrees given the correct air fuel mixture. Temperature sensors are generally set at 190 degrees in order for the fan to kick on and help cool the radiator fluid back down to 190 degrees. These numbers are OEM settings, race engines are usually drastically lower in coolant.
If your water temperature is 200 degrees than most would argue that it is too hot but not everyone. Instead of talking temperature to lessen the argument lets talk about your recovery bottle, which should not need to be there. CR85, CR125 etc. do not have a recovery bottle because it should not be spewing antifreeze in to the recovery bottle it should stay in the radiator. If your recovery bottle has antifreeze in it either you are too hot or your cap is too weak either way you have a coolant problem.
Posted by: MAXRPM
quote:
Originally posted by STOCKRACING917
Yes, Welcome Mr Justin. I wanted to take the opportunity to thank you for your participation in the youth contingency this year at Lorettas, Actually a big thank you to all sponsors who participated. I just want you to know Justin, it didn't go unnoticed the effort you put into it for the kids. And the personal service of coming by the hauler to check to make sure we were satisfied with our purchases and to inquire about our child was a super nice personal customer service. Thanks for all you do.
Paula Stockton
Thanks Paula I really like to give back to the sport. I always donate to many orginizations for the kids. I only come to the races to help, whether you are a Maximum RPM rider or not I am always willing to lend a hand and always welcome to my trailer for support.
Posted by: Reimer Racing
[QUOTE]Originally posted by MAXRPM
[B]Reimer
If you could duck tape the beer bong funnel to the handlebars and keep dumping coolant in the top of the radiator the gravity would do the rest and we would not need the impeller.
Glad to hear you said coolant and not Beer. Would not want to waste any.
On the serious side though. Lt80 brought up a good point about the thermostat would that be a good idea to hold the coolant in the rad. to cool down to a certain temperature to keep the motor running a consent temp.
Posted by: MAXRPM
quote:
Originally posted by Reimer Racing
On the serious side though. Lt80 brought up a good point about the thermostat would that be a good idea to hold the coolant in the rad. to cool down to a certain temperature to keep the motor running a consent temp. [/B]
I am not 100% sure that would be that beneficial because the thermostat is actually designed to help warm the engine up faster. Thermostats are set at 155 degrees and up to keep the water from flowing until it reaches that temperature allowing the engine to warm up faster and not drive with a cool engine. Once the temperature is above the desired temp. the thermostat is always open. Even if you raised it to 180 degrees it would only help your engine warm up faster because once it reaches there it will never fall back down to 180 degrees, because we don't sit at traffic lights and we dont ride is sub zero weather. In my opinion it would just be one more thing to fail which is why most race cars don’t use them but that only my opinion others may find it very valid.
Posted by: MAXRPM
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Logan #34's Dad
[B]
My question is: what is the optimum operating temperature for our engines? I got me one of them fancy tachometer/temperature gauges that will tell me. I know my 70 DRR has never seen 200.
Graham Bell a world known 2-stroke engine guys states that most engines produce best power between 57-70 C that's 134-158 degrees F. That is much cooler than our ATVs are currently running. In the ball park of 158 degrees for every 5 degrees you lower the coolant is a 1-1.5 percent gain in horsepower.
These are not my statistice this is from a very reputable engine builder.
Keep in mind coolant temperature and head temperature are two different things.
Posted by: skyeryder
Ours is still air cooled but throwing this thought out b/c of my 450r most anyone that builds a motor will take the thermostat out of the 450's and wire the fan up to run all the time to keep it cool as possible just my .02
Posted by: MAXRPM
Just FYI for anyone interested I have a fan that is designed to bolt directly to the DRR radiator and cool it. Granted you have to add a battery to run it but it can easily drop the coolant temp 20 degrees. Great for cross country where weight is less inportant than reliability.
We have ran it at Lorrettas in the past when it was really hot.
Posted by: Nichols Atvs
[
Graham Bell a world known 2-stroke engine guys states that most engines produce best power between 57-70 C that's 134-158 degrees F. That is much cooler than our ATVs are currently running. In the ball park of 158 degrees for every 5 degrees you lower the coolant is a 1-1.5 percent gain in horsepower.
I will agree with this statement!
Posted by: Coley'sdad#8
the week before Loretta's here we had the boy's here running 30 min. practice moto's in the 98 deg heat and when they came in we had about 140F
Ha the CVT was hotter than the cyl.
Posted by: Logan #34's Dad
quote:
Originally posted by LT80
So who is going to make a thermostat housing to make the motor run at a consistant temp?
Ah Jack, I've already looked into this idea. The KTM dirt bikes have a thermostat that would work. I was just a lil afraid to try it. Questions of like where to put it, what happens to the waterpump if it is spinning and no water is flowing until the thermostat opens, ect.
My opinion is that it would keep the engine cooler because once the thermostat open it would be introducing cooler water into the engine because of the time the water stayed in the radiator. That process would repeat itself until the water temp equals the thermostat setting in which time the coolant would circulate as it does now.
Posted by: Nichols Atvs
U guys are working to hard on this !!
Posted by: Coley'sdad#8
cut those tie wraps off of that front number plate and watch your temps fall.
I had that thing swiss cheesed out and it still spiked my temp 15 to 20 degrees.
Posted by: racedad26
well we went from one ting to another and i got lost several times, but worked my way back to the beginning and figured it out. Been a long time for me on here and glad to see nothinhas changed in the mini world. We miss running with alot of you gus and having sponsors like justin. Maybe if we are ever ab to return you all will have it all figured out and we can have fun with you all again. Take care and have fun. Justin nice ti se you on here take care also. Randy and Thomas Smith
Posted by: tgcheeseman
Hey Randy how are you? Have not talked with you for awhile. I have a new number im going to pm you it. Call me.
Posted by: tgcheeseman
Were going to an ATV show this weekend and whats going to make us stand out is all the new parts and the parts we already have on that are from Maximum RPM, Thanks again Justin and to all the other sponsor who made our 09 year.
Posted by: tgcheeseman
Very nice billet gas cap. Blue,Red,or Sliver. No more taking cap off so tank can breathe. Very nice quality part.
Posted by: Coley'sdad#8
Toby,
We've all had these caps for about a year I guess and they are nice, Curious, why were you having to take your old cap off to let the tank breathe????? didn't your other cap have a vent?????
how did it not vacuum lock in a race or did you teach colton to how to loosen it with his left hand while racing , now there's skill
Posted by: tgcheeseman
Ive never had any problems. But heard alot of people did on the forums. You have this exact one?? Thats weird.
Posted by: Coley'sdad#8
well the writing on the top is a little different
Posted by: tgcheeseman
I didnt think it said the same thing lol. Do you have one of these?
Posted by: Coley'sdad#8
Don't have one of those. I am going to stick with the nylon impeller for the reason that if anything did ever happen in the housing i.e. foreign material entering housing, bearing going out causing shaft to cock sideways, then I would much rather have the nylon against the housing than i would have the alum. impeller against alum. housing, I can hear it now like fingernails on a chalkboard
I just replaced a w/p kit that had all the vanes sheared off the impeller and they all stayed pretty much in tact and were all laying in the water jacket in the cyl. so it was an easy cleanup.
If the impeller had been alum it would have made a real mess to get totally clean with all the shavings in the radiator ect.. all just my opinion but now you need the clear w/p housing so you can see the pretty blue impeller
Posted by: tgcheeseman
The blue matches the new quad. Yes I would love to have a clear pump housing.LOL.
Posted by: JIM GRACE
quote:
Originally posted by Coley'sdad#8
well the writing on the top is a little different
very funny and true..
we have had ours ( black & blue) since the season started.
stock gas caps s%$#. imo
Posted by: Coley'sdad#8
the writing on the top of mine says "110 octane only"
and on the other bike it says "Dexron R only"
hard to keep em straight but the one with the 110 seems to run better
Posted by: marsrace2
After getting our awesome Trackside Motors we had to get "Rocket Fuel Only" engraved on our Gas Cap.
Posted by: tgcheeseman
quote:
Originally posted by marsrace2
After getting our awesome Trackside Motors we had to get "Rocket Fuel Only" engraved on our Gas Cap.
Ok so you are telling me yours looks just like MINE????? Now really???
Posted by: Coley'sdad#8
Sweet,
Toby did you get laid off or is it raining there?????? lolololol
you gots lots of extra time like your bored today
Posted by: marsrace2
NOPE, Mine is Blue.............and also has Mach 1 engraved on it.
Posted by: tgcheeseman
I thought it said Rocket Fuel Only as your last before last post. LOL not Mach 1.
Posted by: tgcheeseman
quote:
Originally posted by Coley'sdad#8
Sweet,
Toby did you get laid off or is it raining there?????? lolololol
you gots lots of extra time like your bored today
I have internet everywhere I go. I have a Blackberry phone thats thru Verizon and I can do alot with it. Always see post no matter what time . LOL. Its not raining if that helps out your question,. I have lots of time on my hands as Im on unemployment at this time. So even if Im not home Im still on the internet lol.
Posted by: marsrace2
Also says Mach 1 Toby. But I dont really care what it says if it works. I may get one of these for the new Quad we are building, is it available in Black?
Posted by: tgcheeseman
Yes it is avaliable in black. They are really nice.
Posted by: snowfighter
for a free one, i will say that the shinny new gas cap gave our quad an additional 5hp and was the sole reason both my kids won championships in their classes .
"this offer is only good till your done reading this"
d@mn our stock plastic one is really broke too
ok offer back on!!!!!!
live a lil, laugh a lil
this message has been approved by, Timothy L Mahon
ok serious again "toby do not answer this question"
has anyone had good result with the ADJUSTABLE DC HI-PERFORMANCE CDI BOX that maximum rpm sells?
and has anyone tried the blue box ones ya see on ebay for $20 that snyder sells for $80 so i figured might be good
Posted by: mini racer #39
...hehehe
Erik's Mommy
Posted by: tgcheeseman
ok serious again "toby do not answer this question"
Tim I have told you many times about that ignition. If your not using pvl then thats the only way to go period.
Me and Tim are great friends just incase you didnt know Bobbi . Neat cheerleader tho.
Posted by: Coley'sdad#8
snowfighter,
I really like the adjustable cdi / coil combo, tuning in some serious advance for a tight sx style track or retard back a little for a long mx track , you will not believe how much crisper the response is. You will notice it the first time you crank the bike up after install.
Mark did tell me before installing that running the stock drr stator, they had some problems with cutting out @ high rpm's because of power output and that we should go with the high output dinili stator so we did and works great. so far it has been a build it and forget it thing.
Posted by: #8trx450r
The Max RPM adjustable CDI works great, we ran them on Trevor's bikes before with great results, won a couple Local Championships with them even. We used stock DRR Stators and removed all the Mags from the flywheels, great setup for the money for sure!!
Posted by: snowfighter
ok guys thanks for the input.
toby i know you have told me a bunch of time but multiple opinions count for alot, you just might have been the one lucky soul but sounds like it is a winning piece
anyone have a used one for sale?
man i hate being poor arggg we need more sponsors
Posted by: A.Kersey321
hey toby we used a yamaha banshee chain guide on my drr and it took all the drag off the tranny and works great. i weigh a 115lbs when i raced it and it never came off. But it takes a little welding brackets on. It goes back to the back sprocket so the chain cant twist off.
Posted by: tgcheeseman
Thanks for the info but ill stick to my nice lil Maximum RPM Chain Tensioner. It works really well also and shouldnt have any drag on the tranny either. Chain will not pop off using this chain tensioner either,.
Posted by: tgcheeseman
Has anyone tired this part? This is case hardend and ground. Hardness of 60 HRC.
Posted by: wrhracing
Yea it was tried and proven back in 2002 by Mark Hinton and Billy Holt. Xtreme actually used the thing on their Tantrums, except with the plastic roller. So we went with inline skate wheel roller bearings and they seemed to last forever. I was the one who told the other guy the plastic rollers fail and to use inline skate wheel bearings.
Get the bearings out of skates from goodwill industries cheap...
And you get plenty of them with each pair you buy.
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