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safe to go down 2 sizes? (pic)
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Posted by: 2fiftosR

running rich with 180main but the only size down i can get locally is a 175main.. wondering if i'd be safe in dropping down to the 175?? (judging by the color of my plug)
http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/442/plugr.jpg http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/plugr.jpg/1/w677.png
http://img199.imageshack.us/img199/853/plug1.jpg http://img199.imageshack.us/img199/plug1.jpg/1/w683.png

carb is 38pj barrel is 310 pro-x

Posted by: Honda 250r 001

i cant see the pic, but i would say yes because im running a 170...

Posted by: dehner47

i dont know dude. looks like its running a bit lean already. put it in there and run for a few seconds and take out. see if its whiter then before. if so, your way to lean. but again, lean means fast in a 2 stroke

Posted by: Flynbryan19

quote:
Originally posted by dehner47
i dont know dude. looks like its running a bit lean already. put it in there and run for a few seconds and take out. see if its whiter then before. if so, your way to lean. but again, lean means fast in a 2 stroke

What your looking for is the black ring at the base of the porcilin. The tint of the top of the porcelin just tells you if your heat range is right.

If that was a fresh plug that you put in there just for this plug chop I would say you could go down two more main jet sizes and see how it runs. If thats an old plug that you didn't put in just for the plug chop get a new one and try again to get a true reading of the ring.

Posted by: 2fiftosR

yeah it was a fresh plug i put in just for the plug chop.

Posted by: thedeatons

Did you cut that plug to look at it? Why?

James

Posted by: 2muchquad

because he gets a discount on plugs

Posted by: GPracer2500

quote:
Originally posted by thedeatons
Did you cut that plug to look at it? Why?

James

That's the "proper" way to read a plug when performance tuning. Without cutting the threads off it can be difficult or impossible to see what needs to be seen.

I usually hack em all off. But as long as you expose the deepest part of the insulator exposed to the combustion chamber you'll have the view needed.
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/gpracer2500/th_plugcrop.jpg

Posted by: 250r grave yard

quote:
Originally posted by GPracer2500
That's the "proper" way to read a plug when performance tuning. Without cutting the threads off it can be difficult or impossible to see what needs to be seen.

I usually hack em all off. But as long as you expose the deepest part of the insulator exposed to the combustion chamber you'll have the view needed.
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/gpracer2500/th_plugcrop.jpg

now thats what a plug should look like

Posted by: thedeatons

I didn't realize we were supposed to go this far....

I will try to remember to remove a plug the next desert trip, and save it for disection....

My theory so far has been to find a cold weather and hot weather plug for each altitude I ride at, label them, and use them regularly.... Is this what most of you guys do? I would hate to have to do this before each ride...

James

Posted by: 2fiftosR

so i guess i should play it safe and order a 178 main then, rather than use the 175 i have?

Posted by: thedeatons

The dude above said this:

"What your looking for is the black ring at the base of the porcilin. The tint of the top of the porcelin just tells you if your heat range is right.

If that was a fresh plug that you put in there just for this plug chop I would say you could go down two more main jet sizes and see how it runs. If thats an old plug that you didn't put in just for the plug chop get a new one and try again to get a true reading of the ring."

I was always told to look for a chocolate brown on the porcelin. I didn't realize that meant DEEP down on the porcelin.

What ratio are you running and what type of premix oil?

James

Posted by: 2fiftosR

motorex fully synthetic @ 40:1

Posted by: thedeatons

That is not bad, however I would run 32:1 (as I do) to ensure your lubrication is top notch. That way if you are running lean you will have a better defense (when running 32:1).

James

Posted by: 2fiftosR

The oil can be run upto 100:1, so i feel 40:1 is ok, plus its not cheap so my ratio makes it go further..

Posted by: thedeatons

Yeah, I know what the labels say, but if you talk to any engine builder on these forums who builds long running engines, they willl say 32:1.... Just my opinion, and it is safer. You can never have too much safety. But, it is your money.

James

Posted by: woodsracer144

quote:
Originally posted by dehner47
i dont know dude. looks like its running a bit lean already. put it in there and run for a few seconds and take out. see if its whiter then before. if so, your way to lean. but again, lean means fast in a 2 stroke

too fast of a 2 stroke means a dead 2 stroke...

i thing Harld Goodman said you would never find a faster 2 stroke then one thats about to pop... and its true!

Posted by: Honda 250r 001

quote:
Originally posted by 2fiftosR
The oil can be run upto 100:1, so i feel 40:1 is ok, plus its not cheap so my ratio makes it go further..

its not rocket science, more oil means better ring sealing and longer piston life.

Do what you want, but everyone i talked to said that 32:1 is a must.

Posted by: dehner47

32:1 is the ratio you should be running in a 2 stroke to insure engine life. like others have said, ask any engine builder or any ld school pro rider who raced 2 strokes. its 32:1 no if ands or buts.