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Pipe/ filter combo's
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Posted by: quadboy-55

riding an 07 YFZ, feels mellow, needs to be uncorked, more than just the airbox lid and baffle.

right now all the engine mods done to it are a Twin-air filter (will replace in a heart beat) and Dynojetting.

i've been looking into a few pipe and intake vareations like for instance

pipe: HMF (sport), Sparks (std. core), Trinity, and LTE (regualr, or creech). (more oppinions welcome)

intake: FCI, Ron-wood.

i have no idea wich one to get. so youre help is greatly appreceated. i know the FCI is a really great intake, but i'd like to hear about the Ron-wood intake aswell. just to give all of my options a a fair chance.

THNX

Posted by: bferg911

I've got the Ron Woods exhaust and intake with a Big Gun cdi and it's a great combo. Revs out with great power. Runs pretty well against my KTM.

Posted by: proctorbc2005

I think the best mod anyone can do is a good port job on there head 15-20 hp for under $500 if it is done correctly. Everything else is just a perk.

For Intake and exhaust, I love my TC Supper Trapp exhaust, Vortex x10 CDI, with K&N Filter and K&N Air Box lid.

Huge power gains with this combo.

I have yet to race anyone that could keep up with me, (including dirt bike riders) of coarse I have also done a bunch of work to the engine.

Look at the Information in my signature, too see some of the other mods I have done. All together more "ponnies" than I will ever use.

Posted by: motohanks

quote:
Originally posted by proctorbc2005
I think the best mod anyone can do is a good port job on there head 15-20 hp for under $500 if it is done correctly. Everything else is just a perk.

For Intake and exhaust, I love my TC Supper Trapp exhaust, Vortex x10 CDI, with K&N Filter and K&N Air Box lid.

Huge power gains with this combo.

I have yet to race anyone that could keep up with me, (including dirt bike riders) of coarse I have also done a bunch of work to the engine.

Look at the Information in my signature, too see some of the other mods I have done. All together more "ponnies" than I will ever use.

there is no way that just a port job will give another 15-20 hp. maybe with a lot of other engine mods you can get that much more hp over stock, but not with the port job alone

Posted by: bferg911

I would have to say that I agree. 15 -20 horses is a butt load of power added from just porting. I'm not thinking that is dyno numbers, but maybe cool ride estimates.

Posted by: yfzrider690

quote:
Originally posted by proctorbc2005
I think the best mod anyone can do is a good port job on there head 15-20 hp for under $500 if it is done correctly. Everything else is just a perk.

For Intake and exhaust, I love my TC Supper Trapp exhaust, Vortex x10 CDI, with K&N Filter and K&N Air Box lid.

Huge power gains with this combo.

I have yet to race anyone that could keep up with me, (including dirt bike riders) of coarse I have also done a bunch of work to the engine.

Look at the Information in my signature, too see some of the other mods I have done. All together more "ponnies" than I will ever use.

Ya what kind of stuff are you smoking? Pass it on and quit hoarding it. But seriously a port job will add about 3-5 hp. There's no way you are getting close to half of what you claim with porting.

Posted by: proctorbc2005

Sorry about that, it was suposed to read just 5 hp gain. I had somthing else typed there and went back and changed it, just forgot to edit the hp.

Orgionaly it was 15-20 gain for a good pipe, intake, cdi and port job fro under $1500. Relizing $1500 is a lot to spend in one shot, I change it to just a port job for under $500, and forgot to change the hp.

I made a mistake so sue me...........

Posted by: motohanks

that makes a lot more sense, thanks for the clarification on what it was supposed to say. No suing required

Posted by: Dave400ex

HMF or DRD work awesome on the YFZ. I would not get the TC, it's just stupid loud. Also look into getting the billet ring for the air filter and then the clamp on filter. Take the lid off and re-jet for exhaust and air filter. While re-jetting I suggest cutting the throttle spring some to make it softer. After that I would look at porting/cams.

Posted by: quadboy-55

quote:
Originally posted by Dave400ex
HMF or DRD work awesome on the YFZ. I would not get the TC, it's just stupid loud. Also look into getting the billet ring for the air filter and then the clamp on filter. Take the lid off and re-jet for exhaust and air filter. While re-jetting I suggest cutting the throttle spring some to make it softer. After that I would look at porting/cams.

i like HMF alot, but ive heard too much about DR.D's cracking the can. i have yet to hear about the LTE pipes.

and as for the billet ring for the airbox, im assuming you are recomending either a Prodesign or a Velocity set-up. its true that that will make the opening bigger and get rid of the backfire screen, but in you take off the whole tube you realize how choked off it really is. thats why i was looking into an FCI or a Ron-wood because they replace the factory tube with a better flowing unit and come with their own K&N filter. they both re-use the stock airbox (no screen, bigger opening, clamp on), and beat the PD-KN's and Velocity KN's in rideable and overall power.

Posted by: Pack

quote:
Originally posted by quadboy-55
i like HMF alot, but ive heard too much about DR.D's cracking the can. i have yet to hear about the LTE pipes.

and as for the billet ring for the airbox, im assuming you are recomending either a Prodesign or a Velocity set-up. its true that that will make the opening bigger and get rid of the backfire screen, but in you take off the whole tube you realize how choked off it really is. thats why i was looking into an FCI or a Ron-wood because they replace the factory tube with a better flowing unit and come with their own K&N filter. they both re-use the stock airbox (no screen, bigger opening, clamp on), and beat the PD-KN's and Velocity KN's in rideable and overall power.

I've heard by more than one person that the LTE Pipes aren't worth it at all on the YFZ. I've heard they work great on the 700 Raptor, they're just junk on the 450.

I don't know anything about the Ronwood, but I've never heard a single complaint about the FCI.

Posted by: Toadz400

I recommend the Dr. D pipe. Gave my YFZ a ton of torque throughout the entire power band and it wasn't too terribly loud. I did not have the quiet core though. Fairly cheap pipe too, at least it used to be.

Posted by: BMW Dr.

I first ran a N-Motion pipe. It made great power from idle to redline, but would make your ears bleed....it was the 9" can.

I then switched to HMF Ballance. I had the carbon fiber can first.....but the mounting system for it sucks. The can got ruined, so I sent it back to HMF and got a polished can. I freaking love it.....makes just as much power as the N-Motion, just without the bloody ears. The HMF isn't quite, but its not obnoxious. It is really low and throaty.

There is one thing you haven't mentioned being done.....and when you get exhaust, I HIGHLY recommend it. You need to do the "cam mod". Plenty of videos on Youtube showing you how to do it......its pretty easy, as long as you are fairly mechanically inclined. I noticed a HUGE difference......we worth it. You'll need to re-jet for the cam mod......it likes a fatter pilot circuit.

Posted by: REEDracing94

http://yfz450.theatvchannel.com/inv...showtopic=92996
pipe shootout to show what makes power

Posted by: quadboy-55

thanks for all the replies

please, keep 'em comming!

first of all, just for clarification, the reason i didnt adress the cam-mod was becasue im aware of it, and it will get done. my 07YFZ is brand new and still going through the break in. when its time to re-shim the valves i'll get the cam mod in there too to save time cuz the head and cams are already off and out.

i deffinatly do not want a loud pipe, pisses off the neighbours and thats not a winner for the guy with a practice track. 96-99 is resonable. thats why i origonally wanted a DR.d, but on Central, (u will find the same quadboy-55) i was told that the DRD cans crack over time, and are not the best. i have read the shoot-out in the engine section, and thats why i looked at a GYT-R pipe, but the price was something i didnt want to deal with.

thanks for the heads on the LTE pipe Pack. scratch that one from the list, LOL.

if i where going to do an HMF (one in my list already) id do the Sport series, the balance is a cool pipe, but i do MX so the more top-end the better. especally becasue my riding style, im reving out more than lugging the motor. so if anyone can recomend a good top end, but not limeted to top end, basically an ideal MX pipe, tha'd be great, thanks!

also, thats great to hear no complaints on the FCI! music to my ears!

Posted by: yfzrider690

I have a '07 and bought it new, I have had it for two years. I did the cam mod about 6 months ago and checked the valves and they were dead in the middle for the spec. So if you are waiting to check your valves it might be a while. Also you don't have to take the head off to do it, just remove the valve cover which has a reusable rubber seal and you don't even have to take the intake cam out. You just loosen the tensioner and move the exhaust cam one tooth. Put it back together and you're good. Also hmf's are really loud from the one's that I have heard. I have a yoshi rs'7 and my brother has a dasa and we are pretty even and I weigh more than he does. Although I just got my head back from being ported and dropped a high compression piston in so it shouldn't be close now. Just get the pipe you like and you should be pretty happy with it.

Posted by: quadboy-55

quote:
Originally posted by yfzrider690
I have a '07 and bought it new, I have had it for two years. I did the cam mod about 6 months ago and checked the valves and they were dead in the middle for the spec. So if you are waiting to check your valves it might be a while. Also you don't have to take the head off to do it, just remove the valve cover which has a reusable rubber seal and you don't even have to take the intake cam out. You just loosen the tensioner and move the exhaust cam one tooth. Put it back together and you're good. Also hmf's are really loud from the one's that I have heard. I have a yoshi rs'7 and my brother has a dasa and we are pretty even and I weigh more than he does. Although I just got my head back from being ported and dropped a high compression piston in so it shouldn't be close now. Just get the pipe you like and you should be pretty happy with it.

usualy after the break-in its a good idea to check them.

BTW: srry, i did mean valve cover, not head, LOL

i just want to clarify, you move it back one tooth, right? becase Dritwheels said move it foreward, andother mag said back wards, and forums just say cam mod, move it 1 tooth. so, i got the 1 tooth, and im pretty sure its back. THNX.

ive owned an HMF on my Z400 before, and really liked it, i really like how their cans look with the vector tip. DR.D seems great, aside from the cracking cans ive heard about. i hear Motoworks os working on a Quiet series that has more low-mid power than the regular SR-4, but a little less top, but still alot more than stock, its still in testing, id like to hear more about this pipe.

only if they still made the Yosh RS-7 id buy that in a heart beat, that is one of the nicest pipes ive seen.

Posted by: yfzrider690

quote:
Originally posted by quadboy-55
usualy after the break-in its a good idea to check them.

BTW: srry, i did mean valve cover, not head, LOL

i just want to clarify, you move it back one tooth, right? becase Dritwheels said move it foreward, andother mag said back wards, and forums just say cam mod, move it 1 tooth. so, i got the 1 tooth, and im pretty sure its back. THNX.

ive owned an HMF on my Z400 before, and really liked it, i really like how their cans look with the vector tip. DR.D seems great, aside from the cracking cans ive heard about. i hear Motoworks os working on a Quiet series that has more low-mid power than the regular SR-4, but a little less top, but still alot more than stock, its still in testing, id like to hear more about this pipe.

only if they still made the Yosh RS-7 id buy that in a heart beat, that is one of the nicest pipes ive seen.

When the cam mod is done correctly and you have the timing mark lined up so it's at top dead center there are little dots on the cams that are parallel with the top of the head. When the exhaust is modded it will be up a little from the top of the head, basically one tooth off from being parallel with the head. Also I just seen a rs-7 full exhaust on ebay a couple of weeks ago and it went for like 320 for the full exhaust and slip on. That was a great price considering I paid over 500 for mine but that was two years ago. I like the new jardine rt-5. Kb motorsports over on central has them for a good price.

Posted by: quadboy-55

im not the biggest fan of the RT-5 for some reason, i dont really favor the looks.

-yea, thanks man, that helps. do you think it will be noticeble with a stock pipe? or should i wait untill i get [a] pipe?

i heard DR.D was basically a GYT-R but cheaper, but why all the cracking cans on Central with the DR.D's? wouldnt a GYT-R break too then?

if i can get this figured out then i'd go for a DR.D from KBmotorsports, and an FCI.

Posted by: yfzrider690

Really I like the looks of the new rt-5. I have heard that people like the gytr and it gives pretty good power through the whole range. I haven't heard of any of them breaking. Motosport outlet has the new yoshi, the rs-2 and it is only 96db, I know you're looking for one that is quiet. I like it but I am partial to yoshi for some reason. I have had three and like all of them and my dad has one on his raptor 700 and he loves it. I also like the looks of the dr. d.
http://www.motosport.com/atv/produc...prodId=1170592&

Posted by: quadboy-55

i seen the new Yosh RS-2, i had an RS-3 on my Z400 and a RS-5 on my LT-R, it sucks how Yosh decided to become a Suzuki only brand, and take out the Honda, and Yamaha and Kawi P&P and other engine mods. the RS-2 does look sweet, but the RS-7 looked better in my oppinion.

i think im going to drop my cash and get a DR.D pipe and an FCI. lots of the Yamaha pro's like Dustin Nelson used DR.D.

still, oppinions are welcome!

Posted by: quadboy-55

bump.

Posted by: REEDracing94

im gonna be runnin a yoshi not sure what model and havnt ran it with a k&n and ill let you know how it compares to my dads rs4
i know a guy that has a drd and loves it...we also have one on a rappy 350 and it works great

Posted by: quadboy-55

sweet, thanks.

Posted by: Toadz400

quote:
Originally posted by quadboy-55
thanks for all the replies please, keep 'em comming!

first of all, just for clarification, the reason i didnt adress the cam-mod was becasue im aware of it, and it will get done. my 07YFZ is brand new and still going through the break in. when its time to re-shim the valves i'll get the cam mod in there too to save time cuz the head and cams are already off and out.

i deffinatly do not want a loud pipe, pisses off the neighbours and thats not a winner for the guy with a practice track. 96-99 is resonable. thats why i origonally wanted a DR.d, but on Central, (u will find the same quadboy-55) i was told that the DRD cans crack over time, and are not the best. i have read the shoot-out in the engine section, and thats why i looked at a GYT-R pipe, but the price was something i didnt want to deal with.

if i where going to do an HMF (one in my list already) id do the Sport series, the balance is a cool pipe, but i do MX so the more top-end the better. especally becasue my riding style, im reving out more than lugging the motor. so if anyone can recomend a good top end, but not limeted to top end, basically an ideal MX pipe, tha'd be great, thanks!

You do not need to wait for break-in (you shouldn't be taking it easy on break-in) to do a cam-mod. If your engine was built correctly you will not need to shim your valves for quite some time. I have an '05 with everything original in the engine. I broke it in by riding it how I would ride it any other day. I cannot get the thing to burn a drop of oil for the life of me. To this day the valves are STILL within spec.

Do the cam-mod right away.

Dr. D is going to be quieter than an HMF, trust me, unless they have drastically changed their design recently. Your description for a pipe is exactly that of a Dr. D. They did have a few pipes that cracked but that was with the earlier bracket design I believe. They fixed it and offered replacement brackets for the ones that broke. I would definitely recommend the Dr. D pipe as far as bang for your buck and dB rating goes. Very strong low-top pipe, especially when paired with a freer flowing intake and cam-mod.

Posted by: quadboy-55

quote:
Originally posted by Toadz400
You do not need to wait for break-in (you shouldn't be taking it easy on break-in) to do a cam-mod. If your engine was built correctly you will not need to shim your valves for quite some time. I have an '05 with everything original in the engine. I broke it in by riding it how I would ride it any other day. I cannot get the thing to burn a drop of oil for the life of me. To this day the valves are STILL within spec.

Do the cam-mod right away.

Dr. D is going to be quieter than an HMF, trust me, unless they have drastically changed their design recently. Your description for a pipe is exactly that of a Dr. D. They did have a few pipes that cracked but that was with the earlier bracket design I believe. They fixed it and offered replacement brackets for the ones that broke. I would definitely recommend the Dr. D pipe as far as bang for your buck and dB rating goes. Very strong low-top pipe, especially when paired with a freer flowing intake and cam-mod.

im riding my quad fairly hard, LOL, but thanks for the heads!

based on what you said, i think im deffinatly going to get a DR.D, and do the cam mod. thanks!

oh yea, and an FCI, LOL

Posted by: quadboy-55

quote:
Originally posted by Toadz400
You do not need to wait for break-in (you shouldn't be taking it easy on break-in) to do a cam-mod. If your engine was built correctly you will not need to shim your valves for quite some time. I have an '05 with everything original in the engine. I broke it in by riding it how I would ride it any other day. I cannot get the thing to burn a drop of oil for the life of me. To this day the valves are STILL within spec.

Do the cam-mod right away.

Dr. D is going to be quieter than an HMF, trust me, unless they have drastically changed their design recently. Your description for a pipe is exactly that of a Dr. D. They did have a few pipes that cracked but that was with the earlier bracket design I believe. They fixed it and offered replacement brackets for the ones that broke. I would definitely recommend the Dr. D pipe as far as bang for your buck and dB rating goes. Very strong low-top pipe, especially when paired with a freer flowing intake and cam-mod.

so the DR.D deffinatly gives more top-end? right?

Posted by: Toadz400

It is mostly a low-mid pipe but it definitely gives more in the top-end compared to the stock pipe. The cam mod will open up the top end for you. You will not be disappointed with the Dr. D. I know I could never wipe the grin off my face after I did the Pro Design Pro-Flow intake, cam mod, and Dr. D slip-on all at once. It felt like a freight train. I actually ended up putting the cam back to stock because it would literally wear me out with how hard the power would hit while riding the track. It is an awesome set up for riding in wide open fields though, just amazing power that never falls off.

Posted by: quadboy-55

alright, deffinatly sounds good!

Posted by: Trxracr

i have a rossier on my 08 with the cam mod and a uni filter and ncvq needle the thing hauls! i had it on a dyno she made 38.18hp! i got the rossier cuz there built like an hour from my house wen i was at rossier i asked em about sound they said the regular pipe runs about 107db (its a 12 inch can) but i have there quiet kit wich he said drops it down to 96db and you lose 1hp in the middle gain 1 on top (my dyno run was just the standard no quiet kit)

Posted by: quadboy-55

nice, i also looked into the Dasa 99dbs and some FMF pipes, but im not convinced about FMF. Motoworks seems good, as well as other pipes.

Posted by: REEDracing94

my yoshi is GREAT..makes great power...its very loud tho

Posted by: quadboy-55

quote:
Originally posted by REEDracing94
my yoshi is GREAT..makes great power...its very loud tho

RS-7 or RS-2?

Posted by: REEDracing94

not sure..no markings came with the quad..its not rs7 so i guess rs2..i have a rs7 can tho..all i know is the one im using has seperate clamps that slide on the can

Posted by: quadboy-55

no, you dont have an RS-2. the RS-2 has clamps welded on and a newer look, still daimond can aswell.

is yours an oval can? if so you have an RS-3.

they go like this from oldest to newest. RS-3, RS-7, RS-2

Posted by: REEDracing94

ah ok thanks

Posted by: quadboy-55

quote:
Originally posted by REEDracing94
ah ok thanks

no problem. i had an RS-3 on my Z400, it was a good pipe.

Posted by: quadboy-55

was just checking out some of the pipes, and am looking for something easy to repack. my buddy has a sparks X-6 and its a breeze with the hex bolts. Motoworks and HMF are riveted, so thats a no go. plus the sparks is too danm loud to pass a sound test.

who knows of an open core fire breather? whats the db levels of a trinity?