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Problems with new Typhoon 90
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Posted by: guenther

Just got my son a new 2007 "original" Typhoon 90cc a few days ago (he had a Predator 90cc before but had a wreck). The gears (semi-auto 4 speed) are pretty hard to shift but seem to be getting a little easier. I changed the oil and there were some small metal shavings in there but I thought this might be normal for the first oil change. Also, it really dogs off the line compared to everything else. There is some play in the steering and I've done my research on how to correct that. Here are my questions:

-Should I be concerned with the metal shavings?
-Will the shifting continue to get better?
-Ideas on how to make it jump harder off the line?

Any input is appreciated. Thanks.

Posted by: pdracer440

Shifting= My son had the same issue with the shifting and yes it has gotten much easier to shift. I also put a shifter from a blaster on it. It's a tad bit longer and gave him a little more leverage.

Starts= My boy has been doing second gear drops on all his starts. Now I have read some comments about this not being real good for the bike but he's not slamming the throttle and dropping gears, its about a mid throttle drop . I can also say that I did that for years on my old honda 70 ATC as well as my old Honda 125 and never had an issue. In his first race he was up against a few "high dollar" mini's and he was killing them off the line. (shift up into first, let it go into gear, then shift up into second and hold it until the gate drops.)

Oil shavings= If it is brand new you might see a little break in shavings. SMALL PARTICLES! I would wait till the next change and then check it again.

Posted by: guenther

quote:
Originally posted by pdracer440
Shifting= My son had the same issue with the shifting and yes it has gotten much easier to shift. I also put a shifter from a blaster on it. It's a tad bit longer and gave him a little more leverage.

Starts= My boy has been doing second gear drops on all his starts. Now I have read some comments about this not being real good for the bike but he's not slamming the throttle and dropping gears, its about a mid throttle drop . I can also say that I did that for years on my old honda 70 ATC as well as my old Honda 125 and never had an issue. In his first race he was up against a few "high dollar" mini's and he was killing them off the line. (shift up into first, let it go into gear, then shift up into second and hold it until the gate drops.)

Oil shavings= If it is brand new you might see a little break in shavings. SMALL PARTICLES! I would wait till the next change and then check it again.

I changed the oil again today (2nd oil change) and saw very few small shavings this time. Also lost the air cleaner snorkel. I'll have him try the second gear starts. It just worries me that he's going to drop the tranny that way.

The nerf webbing sucks on this thing. He ripped both sides. I'm not looking to replace the factory so I need to find a material to re-string them. Thanks for the response.

Posted by: leager-n-ky

That is actually one thing we never had a problem with, my boys have done "neutral drops" from day one. Holding the shifter up is actually working the clutch on these things, so it really isnt any different than doing it with your clutch lever on your handle bars, It is not actually holding it out of gear, then dropping into gear. It is actuating the clutch, then dumping the clutch itself. The only thing is you will need to adjust the clutch more often, and you should look into updating the clutch also, springs (cr3) and plates (honda 90)

Posted by: guenther

quote:
Originally posted by leager-n-ky
That is actually one thing we never had a problem with, my boys have done "neutral drops" from day one. Holding the shifter up is actually working the clutch on these things, so it really isnt any different than doing it with your clutch lever on your handle bars, It is not actually holding it out of gear, then dropping into gear. It is actuating the clutch, then dumping the clutch itself. The only thing is you will need to adjust the clutch more often, and you should look into updating the clutch also, springs (cr3) and plates (honda 90)

Thanks for the info. You are going to have to school me on how to update it. I can tear down a CVT and 2 stroke motor with no problem but these 4 strokes and semi-autos are all Greek to me. I have no idea on how to update it and not afraid to admit it. I adjusted the shift screw last night and it's a little better. I got rid of the slack in the steering by putting a 3"x3/4" hinged clamp over the two halves. I got it at Menard's and it's for repairing leaks in water pipes. $3.69 and done. Now if I could get Xtreme to call me back about the other problems (I can list them if you want) I have because my local dealer is out on vacation so isn't any help right now. I've left three messages for Xtreme at 888-844-9440 with no response.

Posted by: leager-n-ky

your not going to get a response from xtreme, and if your dealer is like ours, well good luck there too.

List all your problems one of us on here have experienced the same at one time or another.

Posted by: Ride1Rob

What Laeger said! It seems that Xtreme has taken a huge dive on customer service. They used to be on top of things. The thing about this bike is you can do a search in the search section on the Xtreme forum and you'll see every issue with this bike and the remedies to fix or replace them. Don't get too attached to the motor in the bike as the crank issue has got us all. The best thing about that is you can drop a complete manual shift pitbike motor in for $300-$400 and run with modified 2 strokes. Also. if you need any goodies for more hp I have a couple of ported heads and cams that are just sitting on the shelf.

Posted by: guenther

Thanks for the info guys. I got it less than a week ago and here are the problems so far:

1. clutch tight - getting better
2. nerf nets ripped
3. spot welds on nerf backs popping off - zip tying them up for now
4. right plastic foot grip bar partially broke off
5. front wheels don't seem true as the front wobbles at high speed
6. steering play - fixed it with pipe clamp
7. air cleaner snorkel popped off and is gone
8. pipe guard rods popped off - welded them back on
9. kick start was too long because of nerfs - cut about 3" off and did some welding to make it work
10. lost gas tank vent tip - put long hose on and fed down the forks
11. Popping/grinding noise when first apply rear brake with hand or foot lever - can't see anything wrong with the disc

I've got to tell you even with these problems I really like the bike and so does my son. I love tinkering with these as it is a great stress reliever. I learned a long time ago to do searches before you start asking too many questions. I used to have an aircooled VW and the site that I was a member of was brutal to people who didn't use the search button.

Posted by: leager-n-ky

The only fix for the cheap nerf's is to buy some AC racing, whole lot better, offer more protection, just DONT use the mounting tab for the fenders. Keep an eye on ebay I have seen them go for half price on there, they are about 250 new, but well worth it.

Check all the bolts in the front end, these things are terrible for shaking loose (use red loctite)

Get an UNI pod filter, it mounts straight to the carb.

Not sure about the brakes.

Posted by: guenther

quote:
Originally posted by leager-n-ky
The only fix for the cheap nerf's is to buy some AC racing, whole lot better, offer more protection, just DONT use the mounting tab for the fenders. Keep an eye on ebay I have seen them go for half price on there, they are about 250 new, but well worth it.

Check all the bolts in the front end, these things are terrible for shaking loose (use red loctite)

Get an UNI pod filter, it mounts straight to the carb.

Not sure about the brakes.

My son rode today and no problems with the brake now. Might have had a small rock chip in the calipers!?!?!?! When I did some searches I saw to use red Loctite on just about everything. Nothing has come loose yet, but I know they will.

Will I need to re-jet the carb if I put the UNI on? I don't have any jets and I know the dealer doesn't.

Also, do you have a how to on updating the clutch? Like I said before, I know nothing about these semi-autos. Thanks.

Posted by: leager-n-ky

On the front end wobble, where the tie rod connects to the spindle, underneath of that there are two 6mm allen bolts, make sure both are in and tight, we lost these on the very first ride of one bike, and that is what his was doing(wobble at speed).

The update, my thoughts if I were to do it again, I would just replace the springs, since your bike is so new, the plates are still good, they (xtreme) calls these springs cr3's, If you cant find any, I have two motors downstairs that have almost new clutches and these springs in them, but have the dreaded broken crank.

Posted by: guenther

quote:
Originally posted by leager-n-ky
On the front end wobble, where the tie rod connects to the spindle, underneath of that there are two 6mm allen bolts, make sure both are in and tight, we lost these on the very first ride of one bike, and that is what his was doing(wobble at speed).

The update, my thoughts if I were to do it again, I would just replace the springs, since your bike is so new, the plates are still good, they (xtreme) calls these springs cr3's, If you cant find any, I have two motors downstairs that have almost new clutches and these springs in them, but have the dreaded broken crank.

Checked the 4 allen bolts and they were all tight. The nuts on the lower a-arm with the spindle post were not tight. I tightened them up on both sides against the a-arm and it helped a little. Where do you suggest I get the spring? My dealer is no help I can tell you. I'm going to say I need the cr3 spring and he's going to say, "cr what?" Before I bought this I was asking him questions about the bike that I saw here on the site. He said, "man, you know a lot more about these than we do." I'll also need to know how to install spring if you don't mind. Maybe it's a simple process but like I said, I've never worked on a semi-auto before. Thanks for all the help, I appreciate it.

Posted by: Ride1Rob

The clutch setup on this motor is alil tricky to remove. You'll need a special tool to remove the bolts. Got mine from ebay for around $10. The stock Honda springs and clutches are pretty good too and are a direct fit. I use the Honda clutches but have the cr3 springs. Like Leager said, I'm not sure exactly why they call them cr3's either. If you want to get some nice power get rid of the stock carb and get a Mikuni VM26. It'll be like adding an aftermarket exhaust pipe on it and really wake it up.

Posted by: leager-n-ky

http://www.wolfpackracinginc.com/

http://www.tboltusa.com/

These are two companies that both hang out on this site, they can get you anything you need.

Posted by: guenther

quote:
Originally posted by Ride1Rob
The clutch setup on this motor is alil tricky to remove. You'll need a special tool to remove the bolts. Got mine from ebay for around $10. The stock Honda springs and clutches are pretty good too and are a direct fit. I use the Honda clutches but have the cr3 springs. Like Leager said, I'm not sure exactly why they call them cr3's either. If you want to get some nice power get rid of the stock carb and get a Mikuni VM26. It'll be like adding an aftermarket exhaust pipe on it and really wake it up.

What kind of clutch tool is it and do you think the carb will help on a stock 90 or will it be overkill? Thanks.

Posted by: Ride1Rob

Would prob be overkill on the 90. Was thinking of the 125. The clutch tool you need you can order from Vince. He'll ship it right out to you and he knows about these motors pretty well. http://tboltusa.com/store/product_i...products_id=525

Posted by: guenther

quote:
Originally posted by Ride1Rob
Would prob be overkill on the 90. Was thinking of the 125. The clutch tool you need you can order from Vince. He'll ship it right out to you and he knows about these motors pretty well. http://tboltusa.com/store/product_i...products_id=525

Good deal. Now if I had a "how to" on replacing the spring and clutches........

BTW, I just left my 4th message at Xtreme

Posted by: guenther

Here's the latest. 6 messages to Xtreme and no response. It fouled a plug and doesn't seem to have as much power as it did a few days ago. Starts up and idles perfect. Could the valves be out of adjustment already? I also changed the oil again the other day to 10W-40 motorcycle/4 cycle oil instead of conventional 10W-30. Thanks.

Posted by: leager-n-ky

I would just try to replace the springs, all the work you described you could do earlier the springs wont be a problem.

Posted by: guenther

quote:
Originally posted by leager-n-ky
I would just try to replace the springs, all the work you described you could do earlier the springs wont be a problem.

You don't think I should worry about the power loss and fouling the plug? Thanks.

Posted by: leager-n-ky

The fouling plug i'm not sure about, never had that prob.

Are you sure it is a power loss, and not clutch slippage??
Do a compression test.
What did you do about an air filter?
Have you taken the little plug out of the end of the exhaust?

Posted by: leager-n-ky

The clutches I was just refering to you saying "now if i just had the no how". The springs are easy, you dont have to have special tools, you just need to remove the side cover.

Posted by: guenther

quote:
Originally posted by leager-n-ky
The fouling plug i'm not sure about, never had that prob.

Are you sure it is a power loss, and not clutch slippage??
Do a compression test.
What did you do about an air filter?
Have you taken the little plug out of the end of the exhaust?

It seems like it doesn't have as much pull to it. When going up an incline the revs are not climbing over what the bike is pulling so I don't think it's clutch slip. I'll try a compression test. I haven't changed the air filter yet. Still running the stock without the snorkel but I don't know how much flow it is robbing. I have not pulled out the exhaust plug yet. Hopefully it won't be any louder than it is right now, unless we are racing. Thanks.

Posted by: guenther

My dealer has got a brand new set of nerfs on the way to me. I still might get some aftermarket though. I asked the dealer to get the CR3 springs but he said Xtreme didn't know what I was talking about