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Polishing- on a wheel
(Click here to view the original thread with full colors/images)

Posted by: pb_paulie_b

First off this is not a 'one-up' or anything against the other polishing how to, just a different way.
Polishing is a test of patience. The actual polishing AKA buffing or 'on a wheel' is the easy part. If you want to learn find a flat piece of aluminum to learn on.
Just as the other thread we will begin with the sanding part. Start with clean metal. Go to the store and buy sand paper. Pick up grits 80, 100, 180, 220, 320, 400, 600. You don't necessarily need all those grits it depends on how rough the surface of the metal is and what kind of metal your working with.
SAND, SAND, SAND. You want to spend alot of time sanding because that really lays the foundation for a nice shiny part. Start with the highest grit that you think will make the surface flat and work your way up. I never start with anything lower then 80 grit and most times not end higher then 400. An example of the steps to take would be to start with 100 then goto 180 to 220 to 320. If your working with soft metal then it's possible to skip some grits.
Here's some tips:
For a surface to shine it must be flat. scratches, pits and corrosion are what makes metal dull. A mirror reflective part WILL take hours and be perfectly flat and void of pits and scratches.
3M makes assorted grits on a sponge backed pad. It's easier on the fingers. I cut them in quarters.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/DSCF1831.jpg

Buy a pair of cheap knit gloves to save your finger prints unless you want to go rob a house or something when your done.
Only sand in straight lines, never in a circle.
Don't skip too many grits to save time because it will actually take longer to get the previous marks out.
End with at least 320 grit.
Use repetition not power.
Use ANY machine to save time as long as it sands in straight lines.
A plug in drill and dremel tool are your friends.
Invest in a vice mount set up for your drill and assorted grit flap wheels.
Sanding is dirty. Wear eye, ear, and lung protection if your using any power tool.
Make your own rules and do whatever works for you!

This ghetto set-up from years ago produced some amazing work and all I used was a drill and my hands. You don't need a ton of expensive tools to get started.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/mygettorig-1.jpg

Alternator after 220 grit:
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/altmidpolish001.jpg

YS trim discharge tube after 320:
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/DSCF1838.jpg

OK your finally done your sanding and hopefully your piece already has a nice 'brushed' look to it.
Your going to need something to buff out the sanding marks. Before you run out and buy a $280 Baldor try a vice mount drill set-up from www.eastwoodco.com it's cheap and you can use a cheap plug in drill. I used this set-up for the alternator so I can tell you that it is enough if all you want to do is learn and maybe do some stuff on your quad. If you like the art of polishing like me then you will want something more powerful. For less then $70 you can have an 8 inch 3/4 buffer from www.harborfreight.com The one I used for everything I've ever done is still the one I use today.
WHEELS
Goto Eastwood and pick up.
Sisal
Spiral sewn
These are the tried and true standbys. Use the sisal for rough buffing and the spiral sewn to final buff. I personally only use 6 & 8 inch wheels which are perfect size for a 3/4 hp buffer. I have around 20 different wheels but these are still my goto's. Invest in a tapered arbor extension, with it you can go from any wheel to any other wheel in 1 sec.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/taperedaborshaft.jpg

Use good lighting.
Get a good chair. Show me a picture of someone standing and buffing and I'll show you someone who's back and legs give out before their part is shiny. I like bar stools.
wear gloves. Polishing is dirty and you'll find the hotter your part gets the less compound build up you have which is way hotter then you can stand with bare hands.
Pad the floor. You WILL catch the edge of something and drop your part. I use a cardboard box with paper in it. It also contains alot of the mess that flys off the wheel making clean up alot easier.
As you gain experience by all means get other wheels.
Compounds
Again check Eastwood for an explanation of all the colors. Almost universally people use brown (Tripoli) as a rough compound to start with and white (white rough) to finish with. I personally end with green and never use white. Milbro makes the best compounds in my opinion and you can get them at Lowe's.
Let me save you time, clean-up, and wasted compound and tell you more is not better when it comes to applying compound to the wheel. Touch the compound 1 to 2 secs on the wheel.
Wear a face shield and a mask for your lungs.
Do whatever works for you!
I love polishing! Finish a part and want to show it off post it or PM me
With a wheel you let the machine do the work.
Examples:
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/74Yamahamx175055.jpg
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/74Yamahamx175063.jpg

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/74Yamahamx175053.jpg
these parts came off this bike!
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/DSCF2490.jpg

Alternator
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/altbeforepolishsexxxycassie002.jpg
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/polishedpix012.jpg

PS bracket
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/psbracketafter180320and600005.jpg
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/finishedpsbracket021.jpg

Vortech discharge tube from above
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/DSCF1852.jpg

Mikuni 38mm on my Blaster
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/DSCF2998.jpg

YOU GET THE POINT

Any questions don't hesitate to ask...PB

Posted by: mach1stang

yeah i have a question i did a oil catch can on me and my dads mustang and i went all the way up to 600 and wet sanded it, it still has very very fine scrathes i was wondering if your parts have them ?

Posted by: pb_paulie_b

No none at all. That the real benifit of buffing with a wheel and compound. It would take days to hand polish to the effect of buffing.
It's one thing to shine something. It's another to see yourself

Example
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/DSCF2003.jpg
This
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/polishingareabracket001.jpg
To this
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/finishedysbracket016.jpg

Posted by: mach1stang

i always use a powerball when i polish.

Posted by: pb_paulie_b

Powerballs are more for up keeping already polished items or chrome. I've never tried but I don't think they would hold up to the pressure and friction of trying to remove even 600 grit marks. On my 3/4 hp buffer I sometimes bear down on a part against the wheel so hard that the part gets hot enough to burn my hand...PB

Posted by: mach1stang

you would be surprised on the powerball it can do some polishing

Posted by: IMSROLL450R

quote:
Originally posted by mach1stang
you would be surprised on the powerball it can do some polishing

yeah it will polish a surface thats already smooth but it will never take out any scratches.

Posted by: maxitout77

what do you think of this kit?

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ct...temnumber=94962

Posted by: pb_paulie_b

I like it. It has what you need to get started minus the drill or Dremel tool.
Fresh pix. Just did the shifter today

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/DSCF3045.jpg

Posted by: maxitout77

I'm looking into doing my carb in a few weeks. How do you go about sanding in the tight nooks and crannies? The kit from harbor freight has the little wheels to polish in the tight spots, but how well do you sand in there?

Posted by: pb_paulie_b

I sanded the bowl and as much as I could but not in those tight areas. For those areas I used a Dremel tool and some really small wheels ( about 1 inch) I would consider a carb pretty high on the patience and skill level. I spent around 7 hours on it. I can give you some tips to help though.
Obviously plug all ends to keep debris out of the circuits. Break the carb down as far as possible and do those parts individually. Use Q-tips and a liquid polish like Mothers to clean up in those tight areas.
I have to admit a polished carb will definitely wow the crowd everytime

Broke down parts:
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/IM000106.jpg
Other various angles:
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/IM000097.jpg
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/IM000093.jpg
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/IM000092.jpg
Extreme close up!
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/IM000169-1.jpg

Posted by: fords4life

I've done some light polishing work, but nothin that big......yet. I can appreciate the amount of time that takes, and dang.....you've spent some serious hours on that stuff and done some amazing work....Good job!

Posted by: wilkin250r

quote:
Originally posted by mach1stang
yeah i have a question i did a oil catch can on me and my dads mustang and i went all the way up to 600 and wet sanded it, it still has very very fine scrathes i was wondering if your parts have them ?

You can get finer than 600 grit, I think even Wal-Mart has 1500 and 2000, and if they don't, I'm sure your local auto-parts store does.

Polishing is really labor-intensive. It's not the sort of thing that can be done in 10 minutes. If you still have scratches, one of two things is happening. Either you didn't sand enough (you didn't remove all the scratches from the previous grit, or you didn't remove the original flaws in the material), or you need to go to the next higher grit and sand some more. Basically, it boils down to more sanding either way. You should be spending a LOT more time sanding then you ever do buffing.

Many of those truly hot show cars have literally hundreds of hours of sanding before paint is applied. Hundreds of hours.

Posted by: pb_paulie_b

quote:
Originally posted by wilkin250r

Many of those truly hot show cars have literally hundreds of hours of sanding before paint is applied. Hundreds of hours.

I have more than 100 hours in the engine bay of my 89' Mustang.

Posted by: moto04racing

that carb is beatiful..... im gonna do that

Posted by: messenger13

I am by no means an "expert" at polishing and buffing aluminum . . . but I did learn a LOT a couple of winters ago when I polished and buffed the frame and wheels on my '98 ZX-11. I went to an expert and asked his advise. The first thing he said to me was, "NO SANDPAPER! That's for rookies!".

Then he went on to tell me about the magic of buffing wheels and compounds with a HIGH-SPEED buffer (10K RPMs or greater!

). Here's a good place to start.

You want your aluminum to look nicer than chrome? . . . just say "No" to sandpaper, and "Yes" to buffing wheels and compounds. FWIW, buffing is what you do AFTER the polishing phase is done.
http://s3.amazonaws.com/advrider/peepwall.gif

http://home.alltel.net/paulsey_dsl/messenger14/Ninja_Last_Day.jpg

Posted by: pb_paulie_b

I want to talk to him. Hi-speed buffing only works on parts that are basically smooth to begin with. Try that on any rough cast or rough machined part and you will get no where - fast. You will burn though wheel after wheel and still have pits and machine marks. At most you end up with a shiny surface that reflects a distorted image. I have an account with Caswell and can tell you that they offer no 'special wheels' that any other reputable supplier doesn't have. Without specialized machines- expensive and not available to the general public, polishing will always be about hand work and time. I have done many parts without hand sanding but it's rare to get away without using sandpaper.
Know how chromers get their parts so nice and shinny? They are sanded and polished first and THEN dipped in chrome.

Posted by: messenger13

Yes, there is a time and place for sandpaper. But you should NEVER end with it. Not for a nicer-than-chrome finish.

And no offense Paulie, but I would not call the two items below "finished". But perhaps I'm just more anal than you are. Very possible.

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/74Yamahamx175063.jpg

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/altmidpolish001.jpg

I apologize if any of this offends you. This is certainly not my intent.

Posted by: pb_paulie_b

It's all good Joe. I'm here to help and give advice for other people to learn the art of polishing. I have done a goo gobble amount of polishing over many years. The pic of the brake lever is just an example and looks like that only because I choose to leave it that way. You did see all the other examples right? The picture of the alternator you just posted is after 220 grit as I noted right above it in this thread. This pic is of it finished:
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/polishedpix013.jpg
I don't have anything to prove.
I have lots of other photos of my work that is completely mirror reflective.
If you don't mind please describe your hi-speed technique and the machines you use w/some close up shots of the finished work...PB

Posted by: messenger13

quote:
Originally posted by pb_paulie_b It's all good Joe.

Then I think it's time one of us stops typing.

Nice alternator. VERY nice.

Posted by: blasterandy

Nice Teddy.

Posted by: pb_paulie_b

quote:
Originally posted by blasterandy
Nice Teddy.

Thanks. If you squeeze his pawl He says I love you Paulie

Posted by: Napalm Nate

I have sanded my parts to 2000 grit paper, then used mother's to polish them. My question is my parts are still a little cloudy will buffing them with a wheel an buffing compound get rid of this? I ordered the harbor freight kit a couple of days ago and I am still waiting on it.

pb_paulie b I saw your quad in the over the bars section in dirtwheels sweet retro

Posted by: pb_paulie_b

quote:
Originally posted by Napalm Nate
I have sanded my parts to 2000 grit paper, then used mother's to polish them. My question is my parts are still a little cloudy will buffing them with a wheel an buffing compound get rid of this? I ordered the harbor freight kit a couple of days ago and I am still waiting on it.

pb_paulie b I saw your quad in the over the bars section in dirtwheels sweet retro

Yeah it will clean it up perfect. Skip right to either green or white compound. 2000 is extreme but it will save time on the wheel. I normally go 400 grit max.
Dirtwheels hooked me up!

Posted by: pb_paulie_b

I might as well keep the thread goin with a set of shocks I restored and polished

Before:
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/DSCF2495-1.jpg

Same shocks done.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/1974yamahamx175073-1.jpg

Posted by: hondarider101

and what are you going to do with all the parts of this old bike you cleaning up? try and restore it?

Posted by: pb_paulie_b

quote:
Originally posted by hondarider101
and what are you going to do with all the parts of this old bike you cleaning up? try and restore it?

That bike is done I took a year or so restoring it. It's still all original- except for things that were gone like the ripped dry rotted seat and the cracked rear rim. It was in such poor condition that some of the spokes were rusted in half.

Posted by: pb_paulie_b

quote:
Originally posted by hondarider101
and what are you going to do with all the parts of this old bike you cleaning up? try and restore it?

A finished pic of that bike. I polished the rims, fork tubes, kicker, shifter, CDI box, fork caps, most bolts, brake levers and the springs.

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/DSCF3321.jpg

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/DSCF3322.jpg

Posted by: 395Rider

quote:
Originally posted by pb_paulie_b
A finished pic of that bike. I polished the rims, fork tubes, kicker, shifter, CDI box, fork caps, most bolts, brake levers and the springs.

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/DSCF3321.jpg

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/DSCF3322.jpg

Show room quality job!

Posted by: 395Rider

quote:
Originally posted by pb_paulie_b
A finished pic of that bike. I polished the rims, fork tubes, kicker, shifter, CDI box, fork caps, most bolts, brake levers and the springs.

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/DSCF3321.jpg

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/DSCF3322.jpg

Hey Paulie,

When you use the small cone head buffing attachments on a Dremel or drill, can you use the same cone head with different buffing compounds on there? Or do you need to change out each one when you use a different compound. I will be using these to get into the nooks on a 250r engine where I couldn’t reach with the sand paper. I am hoping a black compound will be equivalent to sanding a smooth surface with 800 grit, then work my way down to the green buffing compound.

Please let me know

Posted by: pb_paulie_b

quote:
Originally posted by 395Rider
Hey Paulie,

When you use the small cone head buffing attachments on a Dremel or drill, can you use the same cone head with different buffing compounds on there? Or do you need to change out each one when you use a different compound. I will be using these to get into the nooks on a 250r engine where I couldn’t reach with the sand paper. I am hoping a black compound will be equivalent to sanding a smooth surface with 800 grit, then work my way down to the green buffing compound.

Please let me know

You shouldn't switch compounds on the same cone. I personally will only used 2 different compounds on a piece. I like the black because it gets results fast and then I'll either use green or blue to finish...PB

Posted by: 395Rider

Cool! Thanks for the info! You just saved me a lot of time and money!

Posted by: Bounce400ex

I have a question. If I wanted to attempt to polish my 400 ex motor, and then seal it to keep the shine, would the sealant trap any heat and cause damage to the motor? I've heard this a few places.

Posted by: pro-rider46

zoop seal wont. powdercoating will

Posted by: pb_paulie_b

It's the polishing itself that will raise the temps on an air cooled cylinder not the sealant. When you polish you remove all the almost microscopic hills and valleys of the metal that dissipate heat. I don't think the temp raise from polishing would be enough to overheat your motor unless your already on the verge of running too hot.

Posted by: Bounce400ex

I want to re-sleeve it and put in a stroker crank, that would put it at about 460cc. Do you think polishing with those mods would push it over the top?

Posted by: pb_paulie_b

quote:
Originally posted by Bounce400ex
I want to re-sleeve it and put in a stroker crank, that would put it at about 460cc. Do you think polishing with those mods would push it over the top?

Aw bro I'm no expert jes know how to make stuff shiny

I do know it will run hotter.

Posted by: pro-rider46

quote:
Originally posted by Bounce400ex
I want to re-sleeve it and put in a stroker crank, that would put it at about 460cc. Do you think polishing with those mods would push it over the top?

a 460 will run hot to begin with, but the polishing probably wont have a huge effect, probably not even noticible.

Posted by: pb_paulie_b

Just finished polishing my current carb today. It's an RDZ alcohol converted Keihin 38mm air stryker powerjeted w/oversize bowl http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/thumbsup2.gif

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/DSCF0176.jpg

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/DSCF0169.jpg

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/DSCF0173.jpg

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/DSCF0166.jpg

Posted by: pro-rider46

quote:
Originally posted by pb_paulie_b
Just finished polishing my current carb today. It's an RDZ alcohol converted Keihin 38mm air stryker powerjeted w/oversize bowl http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/thumbsup2.gif

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/DSCF0176.jpg

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/DSCF0169.jpg

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/DSCF0173.jpg

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/DSCF0166.jpg

holy crap that is nice, and huge, can you pm me about the way the powerjet works, i was thinking about converting my quad to alky.