[synthetic oil or not] - ATV Riders Forums - Honda, Yamaha, Suzuki, Kawasaki, Polaris, CanAm, Arctic Cat, Kymco ATVs

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synthetic oil or not
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Posted by: 330Jake

i just baught a 300ex with a 330 big bore and some other mods. i was just wonderin what oil to use in it. he said to run 10w-30 all year long. he wasnt sure but he thaught he was runnin honda gold oil or something like that

also can i switch over to a non synthetic formula as long as it is for bikes or atvs so my clutch dont slip.

Posted by: 400eXr1d3rZ

Run some kind of crap nonsynthetic oil during break-in or the rings won't seal properly. After break-in run whatever you would like.

Posted by: 4TraxRider

I'd really advise running atv/bike specific synthetic or syn blend oils. They do make a difference. If you must run dino oil it's fine to do. You can switch.

Posted by: 04TRX400EX

I recommend using synthetic blends. They are not very much more per quart than nonsynthetic and do a better job at protecting the internal engine components and will not break down as soon which is of course better if you don't change your oil every 10 hours like some people do. I use Bel-Ray's semi-synthetic Thumper blend oil (20W-50). I run the higher viscosity because it gets damn hot in Arizona

I change my oil every 25 hours or so and have had no problems yet. In speaking to my local dealer mechanic, you really only need to run synthetic in full race engines or higher-performance quads. He recommended using plain old Honda oil, but again, semi-synthetic Bel-Ray is a lot better and just a little bit more expensive. I order mine in a 12-pack from Rocky Mountain ATV.

Posted by: 330Jake

thanks, i figured out im going to run Amsoil 10w-40 synthetic for atvs and motorcycles i am changing my oil every 10-15 hours

Posted by: wizecracka

Good choice! Just don't run other brands or wieghts

Posted by: Stein2088

yamalube or that honda stuff works great.... and just a lil warning at the car dealership i work at i was told not to run synthetic in my truck because it had reg oil in it before.... something about the oil not sticking to the bearings makein start up harder i blew them off and rite now my trucks cam is flat..... i would imagine this would b the same for all engines so...

Posted by: Kaleigh

i dont like amsoil.. its good oil but not for quads.. seems like it always burns away and leaves gunk in your engine.. just get honda or yamaha oil.. its fine.. but dont use synthetic if you are breaking in.. and dont baby it if you are breaking it in..

Posted by: hornetgod13

Made specifically for ATVs. They have 4 stroke and 2 stoke versions. It's 10w-40 and costs around $2.00 a quart. They carry it at all PepBoys and Autozones in California.
Do not use synthetic oils in Honda motors as they will eventually cause transmission slippage.
Here's a link to the ATV oil info: http://www.valvoline.com/pages/prod....asp?product=77

Posted by: 330Jake

thanks for your opinions

Posted by: 250X_project

I'm with him on the Valvoline, but what ever you run just, as I always say, run the right API rating found on the back of the oil container. (sf or sg for the 300EX) Other wise engine or transmission damage will occur.
As far as syn. or the blend it is designed to be attracted to the heat and not break down because of it, as regular motor oil does..but I don't risk the tranny/clutch slippage and just change it regularly. In the end it's all up to you though..

Posted by: redline400ex

AMSOIL SYNTHETIC 10W40 since 2000 never looked back

Posted by: toomeyshee87

quote:
Originally posted by Stein2088
yamalube or that honda stuff works great.... and just a lil warning at the car dealership i work at i was told not to run synthetic in my truck because it had reg oil in it before.... something about the oil not sticking to the bearings makein start up harder i blew them off and rite now my trucks cam is flat..... i would imagine this would b the same for all engines so...

Thats bull. You just cant switch back to conventional oil after you run synthetic. And on a vehicle if your going to run synthetic oil you should make the change before about 75000 miles.

Posted by: Stein2088

quote:
Originally posted by toomeyshee87
Thats bull. You just cant switch back to conventional oil after you run synthetic. And on a vehicle if your going to run synthetic oil you should make the change before about 75000 miles.

You can if ur puttin a whole nother motor in it.... And on the older Chevy stock small blocks I strongly recomend not running syn. oil in them... Everyone i talk to (mechanics) seen have stories of "mysterious Cam Failure" the only thing in common with them is that they all where running syn oil... this is in the Gen II engine tho....

Posted by: elementryder

NO! NO! NO! all the engine builders told me to run 20-50 non-syntheticjust belive me call tom carlson he'll tell you the exact same thing

Posted by: 250X_project

I have heard the same thing, more than once...since it was a chevy I don't know if it counts though...lmao

Posted by: Stein2088

I just dunno what else it could be... engine was rebuilt 25k ago broke in rite, and now im running syn oil and my cam is flat??? im up for any and all ideas but when you have several guys sayin they had to put new motors (or cam) in trucks for really no reason and the cam was flat in them all and the only thing they had in common was syn oil bein run.... tends to shy me away from it....

Posted by: toomeyshee87

I will admit that is weird... i have a 97 chevy and I have been running Mobil 1 syn. since i got it with 73000 miles and I have never had a problem. I run it because my brother is a mechanic and all the way through school his teachers told them synthetic was the way to go and they did tests to prove it. Unless its just something with certain motors I dont know.

My bro also builds motors for civics, supras, nissan 240s, lancers, all high revving turbo motors and everyone that he knows in the business swears by synthetic.

Posted by: elementryder

yeh i think its for 300exs only because we run syntgetic in all other 4-wheelers just tom carlson told me to run regular non-synthetic 20-50

Posted by: Stein2088

quote:
Originally posted by Stein2088
I just dunno what else it could be... engine was rebuilt 25k ago broke in rite, and now im running syn oil and my cam is flat??? im up for any and all ideas but when you have several guys sayin they had to put new motors (or cam) in trucks for really no reason and the cam was flat in them all and the only thing they had in common was syn oil bein run.... tends to shy me away from it....

Well you should be runnin the vortec motor... im in a 92 gen 2 motor which is nonvortec meanin no roller rocker/lifter heads.... i was runnin the same thing (mobil 1 syn)and i do still love syni oil... gave me more mpg but somethin about it killed my cam which i dont blame the oil but its more of a warning...

Posted by: suzukiray

In the engines I build for customers I put 20/50 Kendall or Castrol GTX in for break-in. After that, if they need every ounce of power they can get, I will put Mobil 1 in. Other than those VERY few, I suggest using ONLY a 20/50 petroleum based oil & changing it after EVERY weekend of riding. Not ONE single failure yet! Change the oil & clean & oil the air filter after EVERY weekend out & you will have very FEW problems! The problem is that most people are just too busy to stick to the maintenance schedule these days & will run out of time & say"I'll get it after this weekend." Then it turns into 3 or 4 outings before they get to it. Simple maintenance Soooo lengthens the life of these engines & their internal parts! Just my 2 cents from my experience, Ray.

Posted by: blown331

we run royal purple synthetic oils in our motors and have never had a cam issue? This is in our fords, and unfortunately chevys too.

A flat cam generally means one thing... spring tension is set way to high on the lifters. regardless of how you look at it, a synthetic will protect better and improve horsepower so how a better oil would cause the friction necessary to destroy a cam is beyond me...

I'd point to the head assembly

Posted by: 250X_project

Ford power! I like that. Your bigger than the 5.4L now. My buddy has an 88 5.0. What would you recommend for a clutch? It lays some good strips, but you can smell that clutch....

I wish my little Ranger would lay them down. (2.3 with a new Perfection clutch that still slips.....) Perfection my a....

Posted by: blown331

if its stock... i'd go with a centerforce dual friction, hold well, pretty light clutch pedal

same clutch I used to run in the cobra before it started making 500+ ponies to the wheels

Posted by: 250X_project

Yeah, it only has K&N cone filter, Accel ignition, and some sort of chip. I doubt it is pushing 500HP lol. Do you know what a stock 302 mustang GT runs for the late 80's?

Posted by: 250X_project

Also did they switch to the 5 lug the same time they went to 4wheel dicks brakes? We had some nice 18 in chromes we were going to run, until we found we only have 4 lugs on the car....

Posted by: blown331

yup, 94 and newer are the only 5 lugs.. 93 and older you're stuck with the 4 unless you want to do an axle/carrier swap.

ehhh the older 5.0's are rated at some pretty low #'s....

like 215-230 hp 270-300 ft-lbs of torque

Posted by: 250X_project

Oh okay, I guess we are stuck with the 4lug.

Oh well. Thanks! Good info.